Diary of a Yeti

‘Everest’, the name has fascinated me since mychildhood. I was in Asia five years ago and intended to go toNepal but it didn’t happen. Fate ordained otherwise, and Ihad always regretted it. It was therefore with the greatest ofpleasure that I found myself in the spring of 1974, flying toNepal.It’s a pity that I can’t inform the reader of the exactcircumstances and accidents which brought me once moreto the ‘roof of the root’, but I have taken a vow of silence.Suffice it to say that 48 hrs. after my arrival in Katmandu, Iwas a free man left with the stench of the bazaar, the flies ofAsia, $500, and a childhood dream.From that moment I was on a pilgrimage to the highestmountain of the world. Of course it would be impossible toclimb to the top. I had neither the funds nor the experience.However I was determined to reach base camp at 18.000 ft.and pay my respects to this awesome wonder of the worldand to the men who have tried to climb her.This diary is about my experiences in Katmandu and themonth long journey to the foot of Everest. It was writtenduring the trek and for the most part is unrevised. It containsa little of everything, from politics to economics and fromtrekking information to personal experiences. I’m indebtedto Pope for his unique illustrations, andJacqueline Honssaux for her precise photographs, and JimRutke, Robert Valeuze, and Bridget Ascel for their finepoetry. Also I’d like to thank my porters, Kulli and Ganshee.I am happy to call them my friends.

cover design based on a painting by Angela Johnson